Category Archives: Veal

velcome to the veal vorld

So, after a few, ok, a lot of roadkill drive-by’s, we looked at each other and said ‘was that a cow’. It was, and it was in the middle of the road, and it was a baby cow, poor thing. It had clearly been hit not long prior, and we were around the South Australian/ NT border with cool morning temperatures. So, knives sharpened and I went to work. Some of the meat was a bit bruised, but a lot wasn’t. So two back legs, one front leg and the backstraps off. (Though I wish I’d had a look for the thymus….).

So here’s the haul, with Patrick looking on at about 2months worth of food……..

First night in Alice and I was lacking a grill to put over the fire. Two spare bike spokes through the length of a backstrap steak covered in olive oil and slowly grilled over embers. Yum. I made a leek and back garlic risotto to have too, though I think the guanciale was a bit much given the meaty accompaniment.

I can’t recall the last time I cooked schnitzel, and this is where I rediscovered the Guardian ‘how to cook the perfect…’ series, which is very very good. The cuts I had from the roadkill weren’t obvious or perfectly formed, hence when bashed with a wine bottle, the curiously formed Australian shape ensued (although it also looks a bit like a thymus….). The Guardian article states one source of making the schnitzel 4mm thick. The roadhouse beef schnitzel I had was about 10mm- I guess folks expect to get a protein hit from their schnitty.img_0290

A light dusting of flour, dipped in egg and then fresh breadcrumbs and fried in lard/ butter and olive oil- I like the 3. The slight offcutness led to it curling up so it became irregular in all dimensions……

I later made one with a curry powder/ flour dip which was sensational.

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So here going very old school with some saurkraut cooked with white cabbage- just what you want in the tropics???

So, the shoulder screamed out for a slow barbecue, and after I’d slow roasted the wedding pork (in a conventional fan oven…) with a dusting of curry powder, it only seemed ┬ásmall leap to use curry powder as a rub for a slow smoked shoulder of veal……..

So, about 5-6hrs in a borrowed weber with the heat kept to 120C as best as I could with some wood from the adjacent Katherine river wilderness- I’m not sure what it was. Interestingly a wood I burnt later was really disgusting- obviously best to get a whiff first before you smoked something for 5 hours. Anyway, below is the result, it was magnificent. I kept it in the roasting pan which helped it from getting too much direct heat- I think the pizza metal plate with holes in would also act as a good ‘baffle’ to prevent direct radiant heat burning the meat. Some decent beer poured over the meat intermittently for malty flavours and to prevent drying and a large syringe to baste the juices back onto the meat.

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The crust, the pink ring, the moist meat, the pan scrapings……

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Early on arrival to Katherine I also thought it would be nice to try out making bresoala. Now this is usually made from a single muscle piece, dissected out from the rear leg, ’round’ steak I think (semi-tendonosis m.). However, obviously my leg was pretty tiny so this was essentially a veal rump, about 1.1kg if I recall. Going with the top end vibe, I salted these with a salty cure of some local honey, crushed pepper berry/ bush tomato, some local pink grapefruit juice (a useful of bit anti botulinum acidity) and some Lake hart salt (20g ish, i.e. 2% of meat weight) we scraped up from the insane salt flats in South Australia.

So I cured this for 3 days in the fridge wrapped in a sealed plastic bag, patted it dry, and stuffed it in amedical bandage and hung it in a bar fridge set to it’s lowest (i.e. warmest) setting- this seemd to hover around 10C. It rapidly and spontaneously developed an amazing white mould of candida (OK, weird, this is salami thrush), but evolved over the next few weeks into a wonderful meat cheese!! By 6 weeks it had lost over 30% of it’s weight (with a few wipes and excursions into the real fridge to dry off a bit), and lost it’s suppleness to a squeeze. It felt,’just right’. And it was. See below……

OK, it might not pass stringent food hygiene standards, but it didn’t kill me.

Got to love an old red with cured meats

So, what else is veal most famously utilised? I’d say goulash, and once again, the Guardian series gives a great discussion on the topic though interestingly no mention of veal- they suggest beef shin. The key ingredients in this, in addition to veal, is paprika, green peppers and interesting caraway seeds.

I used Spanish sweet smoked paprika, as that’s what I had in the cupboard. I also put in img_0798some fatty cured pork to add a bit of richness, although you could against that given the addition of sour cream at the end, which was sublime. Other useful points were to add the cooked green peppers towards the end of the cooking process, which preserved the texture and prevented them turning into mush.

This was utterly fabulous and I have to say, I loved the subtlety of the veal here, definitely a win, especially with the rather amazing New England lager.

STOP THE PRESS!!!!

I missed my most innovative outing. Well, I thought so as did my visiting guests Genevieve and Brian. I had a shin left over and thought a proper osso bucco should be done, proper as in this is actually veal. Often beef shin is sold as osso bucco here in Oz, which is nice, but osso bucco it is not.

I can’t recall where I saw this but I’m sure I’ve seen an Italian recipe somewhere for pork baked in milk, well, it seemed appropriate to pair with veal. I’ve got a weird recollection I tried this in a pressure cooker in Berlin a very long time ago- it was a disaster as I recall. The milk curdled and the meat was under done.

Anyway, what I was after was the milky rice pudding crust covering meaty goodness.

So a litre or so of hippy milk, a bay leaf, and onion and some carrots. Baked in the oven 150C ish until a nice lactatious crust had formed- bingo.

Served with bashed potatoes and truffled spinach. Castagna Shiraz/ Viognier was epic.

To be repeated, with more meat………

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Beef ‘n’ Barra

A fine name for a pub, though The Buff’n’Barra might be more appropriate here in the Top End. Better keep that from the ‘Hoff’, who’s apparently going to build a bar somewhere around here Casablanca style. Anyway, a classic leftover concoction here. We had an amazing sunset barbecue on Simon’s wee chunk of land here in Katherine, a 200acre nature playground. I took along a side of Barra kindly given by Mel, and we threw that on the hot plate over charcoal with no adornment. Most of it got left as the shoulder of pork was beautiful and even crackled successfully over hot coals. So tonight, on my tod, I made an Indonesian flavour noodle soup. I had some deeply amazing beef stock from some roast beef ribs (roasted 5 hrs) and a left over bit of ‘roo thigh bone. To this, some insane homemade paste from out local shop in Wanguri, weirdly, which must have chillies, shallots and balacan (fermented prawn brick) amongst other unknowns. I had some leftover fatty rib meat, the barra, a mushroom, some rice and mung bean noodles and some spinach and rocket mix which I just put in the end to wilt. Washed down with Vale/Dark as shown. Glorious.

Shona picked up a bag of beef bones at the supermarket on the tip off from an Italian guy who was prcuring offal of some kind, though I think he suggested these were for the dog. Little does he know the joyous lubricant that resides in dem bones- which is odd, given osso bucco, (later). Maybe $6 for the pile shown, and what a marrow harvest, wow. I used some on a pizza, which I think I just served plain. I do remember it was the finest pizza night ever. What to use on next……?

The bones I roasted and made a spiffing stock.┬áMaybe next time I’ll do Fergus Henderson’s signature roast marrow bone salad. Oooh, some sourdough to smear that on would be divine…….

 

The dessert pizza reappeared, but this incarnation included some rather sour plums with a nice dark skin. I was really chuffed with how this turned out. The plums were delicious. It’s amazing how some fruits just explode into life after cooking, the skins seem to be the treasure box of flavour. I’m never that taken with blueberries until you cook the buggers. A decent sprinkle of vanilla sugar and some butter for, well, obvious reasons. Maybe I should try this with a

Shona found a recipe for ‘Tuscan rabbit’. I don’t have it to hand, but bloody hell, it was amazing. Ah, here it is. I’m usually a bit suspect of tomatoey concoctions, I often find them a bit too bloody tomatoey, allowing not much other flavour to express. But this was bloody amazing. Lovely sweetness from the onions, and the fennel was a subtle background too. Very nice. Shona made a huge amount of sauce so this has reappeared with some ‘luv a duck’ pork and duck fennel sausages. They are very fine meaty sausages, more suited to this cooking than a bbq. Definitely not a snag or banger.

 

Now Woolies has a few things over Coles, and these veal osso bucco are one of them. The last OB’s I did was beef, and it suggested to me why veal is preferable for the wet stove fry method. The beef ones quite dried up and contorted by the time they were edible. These veal beauties were cooked in 1.5 hrs or so, stayed moist and didn’t buckle up over themselves. Just slow cooked adding only white wine, and then some bonkers purple carrots to cook as shown. Should have used the excess marrow above for a risotto Milanese……